p109r Working in rough with wax
When thewaxis too hard, one mixes in some turpentine or a bit of butter, which renders the wax malleable, and cleaner than tallow, which the Italians mix in, because oftentimes, it is necessary to put the tools into the mouth, [tools] which are better when made frombox woodorantler.


p120r Impress medals made from wax
You can mold your relief with wax mixed with a bit of resin to make it harder and firmer, whatever relief that you wish, either an animal or a medal. And then, fashion a hollow out of this relief in brass or copper. Or mold your [wax] in relief and strike it in a sheet of tin. And fill [your final product] with lead, and heat it. Try [to use] blades of stone leaf to make the hollow for lizards &


p042r Seal and print wax
<ab id=”p042r_b2”>For large wax seals, you should always have tepid water handy, and keep your wax in it. Yet previously you should have kneaded it with your hands, so as to make it very smooth and even, for otherwise the water would penetrate the wax and prevent it from holding together. Afterwards, you can stamp whatever you want. Cover the wax in three or four sheets of paper, and, with a round and smooth stick similar to a pestle, roll it out as if to polish it. It will then stick to the paper, helping you to take it off from the seal. In this way you will stamp better than if you were dripping molten wax. You can carve figures and color them in gold, in silver, or paint them with couleurs à vernis, and transfer them onto a glass pane painted with couleurs à tourmentine & mastic. And if you want to apply these designs by inlaying, use ammoniacum mixed with vinegar, and it will stick well.</ab>


<title id=”p160v_a1”>Moulding a foot or a hand</title>

<ab id=”p160v_b1”>Mix resin to the wax. Once well blended, soften the mixture into hot water or urine. Then press [the foot or the hand] in the mixture in order to get and impress, then pour plaster; the cast will which will be clean and come off easily.</ab>


<title id=”p044v_a4”> Stucco </title>

<ab id=”p044v_b4”> Some don’t use for sticking stones some gemme pitch black rosin because it is too greasy but they use some rosin and sulphur in the same quantity and as much wax as both, and then the strongest mingled some crushed brick, the others some crushed and powdered and sieved white chalk or white stone. </ab>


<title id=”p050r_a2”>Molding</title>

<ab id=”p050r_b2”>If you want to quickly mold in demi-relief anything you come upon, fold some paper five or six times over, and place it on the medal and make sure the paper is folded around the edges of the medal so it is very secure. Next take a stick, broad at one end and with a well-dulled point at the other, and rub firmly on the paper, and retrace the lines with the point of the stick until you reckon that your impression is well done. Then, at your convenience, rub oil onto the paper lightly with a brush, and cast some tallow or wax or sulphur into it. And the paper, without burning, will give you a neat design that you can then mold in plaster or tripoli and then in lead and other metals.</ab>


<title id=”p104v_a2”>For casting</title>

<ab id=”p104v_b2”>If you’ve got a big piece which does not allow an easy stripping of casting, mold it with some wax, either on the hollow side or in relief, because it is soft and hollow and so can easily be separated from the piece without leaving anything. But be sure that the melted wax is neither too hot nor too cold. Some people use for molding some wax warmed in boiled water, but while pressing the mold it bends and becomes unusable. Once you have made your wax cavity, you can cast in some very soft and clear clay, and let it dry. Then, upon it you will make a lead or tin cavity, in which what you will make will easily be stripped.</ab>


<title id=”p109r_a3”>Molding wax</title>

<ab id=”p109r_b3”>So that your mold takes hold without repelling any surface on a form or figure in wax, it is necessary to rub the wax with oil and soak your sand in lukewarm water, because cold water repels oil even more and will not make a good layer on the wax.

<note id=”p109r_c3”> Rub the oil on very very lightly, [use] so little that it hardly appears at all. Then rub with some spirits. After soak your sand in lukewarm water so that it does not repel the oil.</note>


<title id=”p120r_a1”>Stamped medals made from wax</title>

<ab id=”p120r_b1”>You can mold your relief with wax mixed with a bit of resin to make it harder and firmer, whatever relief that you wish, either an animal or a medal. And then, fashion a hollow out of this relief in brass or copper. Or mold your [wax] in relief and strike it in a sheet of tin. And fill [your final product] with lead, and heat it. Try [to use] blades of stone leaf to make the hollow for lizards &</ab>


<title id=”p122v_a2”> Molding hollow </title>

<ab id=”p122v_b2”> Wax alone cool down very soon, and does not run everywhere very well, tallow keeps its heat and run everywhere. But tallow alone is not good that is why you have to mix wax and tallow together. You can easily mold hollow bodies of crawfishes, or bodies of other small animals, but it isn’t so easy to mold hollow their legs. </ab>

<note id=”p122v_c2”> The first part of your mold which is first casted on [...] clay cracks more easily on fire

than [...] </ note>





<title id=“p133r_a1”>Hard wax to imprinting seals</title>

<ab id=“p133r_b1”>One makes these [seals] out of white wax which is harder than the other and one mixes in it some cerussite or leaded white very finely ground such that it is as hard as you like and mix in a drop of turpentine to bind it. Afterwards mix it in the color that you want. It is in wax that goldsmiths start.</ab>





Very strong wax

Mix your wax with resin and red bole Do not cast very hot

SOMETHING INTERESTING FROM THE DICTIONNAIRE DE L’ACADEMIE

FRANCAISE : BOL D’ARMENIE : reddish earth from Armenia, gilders use it.

Blacksmiths use it also for horses, and almost all of them are in ignorance of the right

word and call it Brouillamini (THE WORD BROUILLAMINI IS IN THE MANUSCRIPT)





<ab id=”p151r_b1”>

The white wax from which you had made your sulphured black wax hasn’t so much matter when dry and cleaned, and doesn’t leave any lump in your mould, also it flow very gently out of the mould. Coal which is mixed with the white wax could leave some matters in the mould, but they can be burned and reduced to ashes which can be empty by blowing. You can open your mould when the wax is melted if there aren’t any delicate thing which could break in your mould. Open the clamps made of lute, then open your mould and cover it with a coat of common lute, then dust the whole thing with crushed

bricks in order to better handle the mould. let dry the lute softly instead of drying it on fire which would melt the wax. When the wax has flowed out of the mould, burn the wax and the coat which remain in the mould. when your mould had been heated once, lute again because bad plaster make the mould shrink, the joints

would open and make burrs. Do not heat your mould twice if you cast only lead or tin, but the lute must…





<ab id=”p151r_b2”> Cast cold black wax in the mould. It is necessary to open half of your mould to cast, if the figure made of black wax breaks, it is not a problem because you can rework it with the point of a warm wire. You could also join the pieces in the mould by joining very well the two half parts of the mould. when the figure is large, cross inside the mould wires in order to hold the core </ab>